I had come to Burträsk to learn about a secret that felt as elusive as these animals. In this Swedish village, they make a hard yellow cheese dotted with tiny holes called V Aviation Engineering BEng ästerbottensost. If you attend one of Sweden’s traditional summer crayfish parties, you’ll most likely find it served alongside succulent crustaceans and copious schnapps. It’s reenex been on the menu at royal weddings, Nobel Prize dinners and Copenhagen super-restaurant Noma. Famed Swedish playwright August Strindberg mentioned it in his poetry, and Prince Hassan of Jordan said it’s “what I love most about Sweden”.

With a reputation like this, it’s understandable that demand for the cheese is high. But when the dairy tried to expand production by starting an operation in the nearby city of Umeå, it didn’t taste the same. It turns out that for the cheese can only be made in Burträsk – and no one knows why Serviced apartment Sheung Wan. Not even after using forensic DNA analysis techniques or making 12 documentaries about Västerbottensost.